NB! THE PATTERN HAS 1 CM SEAM ALLOWANCES INCLUDED UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

You need to draw quilting lines onto pattern piece D & E. Trace the quilting lines from the quilting template; use the cross on the pattern piece and match it to the lines on the template to get the correct angles on the quilting 

1.       Cut out all pieces in fabric

     NB!

a.       Cut pattern piece C & H on the bias 

b.      Do not cut pattern piece D & E in batting yet. 

c.       Cut with plenty of seam allowance around one pair of pattern piece D & E. 

2.       Sew the bust dart, right sides together. Press the seam up. 

3.       Layer the fabric and batting pieces for pieces D and E, and quilt together – se how to here

4.       Overlock:

a.       CB

b.      All side seams

c.       The long sleeve seams

d.      One of the long sides of the pocket and the short sides. 

 5.       Sew the sleeve seam, right sides together. 

6.       Sew CB seam, right sides together.

7.       Sew the side seam, right sides together.

8.       Press all seams open.

9.     Hem the top (long side) of the pocket with 2.5 cm

10.   Topstitch 2 cm from the folded edge. 

11.   Fold the two shorts sides of the pocket with 1 cm, wrong sides together. 

12.   Place the pocket on the jacket using the markings on the pattern. Topstitch the pocket in place, 0.2 cm from the edge. 

13.   Fold the edges of the waistband (F) over 1 cm and press, with wrong sides together.

14.   Place the waistband on the right side of the jacket in line with the markings from on the pattern.

15.   Sew the waistband to the jacket with a topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge. Stop the stitch 2 cm from the ends, do not backstitch.

16.   Attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic and pull it through the waistband. Leave the safety pin in the elastic.

17.   Place the end of the elastic, the one with no safety pin, under the seam allowance at the end of the waistband. Top stitch from the first stitch you made to complete that end of the waistband, securing the elastic.

18.   Now pull through the elastic with the safety pin, remove the safety pin and finish the elastic the same way you did at the other end.

Assemble the jacket

20.       Sew the front shoulder-yoke to the front piece. Right sides together

21.       Sew the back shoulder-yoke to the front piece. Right sides together

22.       Sew the shoulder seam, right side together. 

23.       Overlock the shoulder seam, press towards the front.

24.       Overlock the seam at front-yoke, press down. 

25.       Overlock the seam at back-yoke, press down.

26.       Sew a topstitch on the front 0.2 cm along the yoke seam.

27.       Sew a topstitch on the back 0.2 cm along the yoke seam.

28.       Sew the sleeves to the jacket, right sides together.

29.   Overlock the armscye

30.   Overlock the bottom of the jacket.

31.   Sew the bias band to the front edge of the jacket – see a guide online.

·       Place the right side of the bias band to the wrong side of the jacket.

·       Sew with a seam allowance of 0.7 cm – press the bias band out. 

·       Fold the raw edge of the bias band to the raw edge of the jacket.

·       Fold the bias band around the edge of the jacket. 

·       Topstitch the bias binding in place, 0.2 cm from the edge. 

Sew the bias band to the sleeve

32.   Cut bias binding the same length as sleeve bottom + seam allowance.

33.   Sew the bias band to the sleeve the same way as the jacket. 

34.   Hem the jacket with 2 cm.

35.   Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.