No. 31 Porto - Version 2

These trousers are inspired by 1940s silhouettes. This design accentuates the female form while offering a powerful and feminine expression. The many details catch the eye, providing plenty of elements to play with. 

Fabric choice:

Light to medium weight woven fabric: cotton, silk, wool, viscose, cupro, linen or polyester. Works well in fabrics with comfort stretch. Not suitable for jersey. 

Find Your Size:

Take your measurements according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement. Print the measurements chart here.

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished garment will fit you perfectly. 

Cutting Fabric

On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:

A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, j, k

Sewing

NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.

1. Cut all pieces in fabric, pocket lining, and fusible interfacing. Remember to mark all notches and markings. 

2. Press fusible interfacing onto the pocket facing (G) and all waistband pieces (C, D, E). 

3. Sew the darts on the back pieces (B), right sides together, according to notches and markings. 

4. Press the dart towards the center back. 

5. Finish the long seam on the pocket facing (G) and the pocket bag facing (I), as well as the long straight seam on the big pocket bags (H). Use an overlocker or a zigzag stitch. 

6. Place the wrong side of pocket facing (G) on top of the small pocket bag (F) and stitch it in place by topstitching on the finished edge.   

7. Place the wrong side of the pocket bag facing (I) on top of the large pocket bag (H), and stitch it in place by topstitching on the finished edge.  

TIP! Sew the pocket facing (G) and pocket bag facing (I) to the right side of the pocket bags if you want the right side visible inside your garment, and to the wrong side of the pocket bag, if not. 

8. Place the pocket bag (F) right sides together with the front pants (A), and sew the pocket opening together. 

9. Clip into the corner, and press the pocket bag and seam allowance towards the pocket bag. 

10. Understitch the pocket bag. 

11. Turn the pocket bag (F) to the wrong side and press the pocket opening nicely. 

12. Place the other pocket bag (H) on top, and sew the two pocket bags together at the bottom and up to the notch on the long straight edge of the pocket bag. 

13. Finish the edges of: 

• The bottom of the pocket bag 

• The side seams of the front and back pants (A & B) 

• The inseam of the front and back pants (A & B) 

• The crotch seam of the front pants, including the pocket bag (A) 

• The crotch seam of the back pants (B) Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch. 

14. Sew the front pants (A) and back pants (B) together at the side seams, right sides together. 

15. Press the side seam towards the back piece. 

16. Sew the front pants (A) and back pants (B) together at the inseam, right sides together. 

17. Press the inseam open. 

18. Sew the right and left pant legs together at the crotch curve, right sides together. 

Sewing the waistband:

19. Sew the tie bands (K) right sides together, and Sew the tie bands (J) together, You will need to sew two sets, a total of four tie bands. 

20. Trim the tip of the tie down to about 0.2 cm and clip notches into the seam allowance where the seam curves.  

21. Turn the tie bands, right side out, and press all four tie bands neatly. 

22. Sew the back waistband (E) together along the short curved side, right sides together 

23. Sew the side waistband (D) together along the short curved side, right sides together. 

24. Clip notches into the seam allowance and press the seams towards one side of the waistband. 

25. Understitch the seam allowance on your waistband pieces. Make sure to mirror the waistband pieces (D) so you have a right and a left side. The side with the understitching will be the side that faces your body. 

26. Place the tie band (J) with the right sides facing the slanted side of the side waistband (D) the one that doesn’t have an understitch. Sew it to the seam allowance.

27. Place the two short waistband pieces (D), the one with the tie band attached, on top of the waistband (E) and sew them together at the side. Press the seam towards the back (towards waistband piece E). 

28. Finish the side of the waistband, the one with an understitch. Use an overlocker, bias binding, or zigzag stitch. 

29. Sew the two center front waistbands (C) together along the short curved side. 

30. Clip notches into the seam allowance. 

31. Unfold the waistband and press all the seam allowance towards one waistband piece, and understitch the seam allowance. The part with the understitching will be the side that faces your body. 

32. Finish the side of the waistband that has been understitched. Use an overlocker, bias binding, or zigzag stitch. 

33. Place the tie bands (K) with the right sides facing the right side of the waistband (C), the side without the under stitch. Sew them to the seam allowance.

34. Place and pin the center front waistband (C), the side without the finished edge, right sides together with the waist of the front pants. Include the pocket bag (F) in the seam. The waistband should extend 1 cm beyond each side. 

35. Sew the front waistband and front pants together. Press the seam allowance towards the waistband. 

36. Fold the waistband in half, right sides together. At the ends leave the seam allowance from step 34 folded towards the waistband as pressed and allow the finished edge seam allowance to extend 1 cm past the waistband seam. Pin together. 

37. Sew the waistband ends together clip corners and turn the waistband right side out. 

38. Press the waistband from the right side and pin it along the waistband seam. 

39. From the right side, stitch in the ditch along the seam between the waistband and pants. 

40. Place and pin the back/side waistband (E+D), the side without the finished edge, right sides together with the waist edge of the back pants and pocket bag (H). The waistband should extend 1 cm beyond each side. 

41. Sew together and press the seam allowance towards the waistband. 

42. Fold the waistband in half, right sides together. At the ends leave the seam allowance from step 40 folded towards the waistband as pressed and allow the finished edge seam allowance to extend 1 cm past the waistband seam. Pin together. 

43. Sew the waistband ends together, clip corners and turn the waistband right side out. 

44. Press the waistband from the right side and pin it along the waistband seam. 

45. From the right side, stitch in the ditch along the seam between the waistband and pants. 

46. Sew buttonholes according to the markings at the waistband (D), all buttonsholes are horizontal. 

47. Sew buttons in place. 

48. At the side with the tie bands, stitch in the ditch. This will help keep all the layers of the waistband together.

49. Finish the hem of the pants with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. 

50. Fold the pant legs up with a 5 cm wide hem and press. Sew in place with a regular stitch or invisible stitches (catch stitch).