No. 32 Porto - Version 1

These trousers are inspired by 1940s silhouettes. This design accentuates the female form while offering a powerful and feminine expression. The many details catch the eye, providing plenty of elements to play with. 

Fabric choice:

Light to medium weight woven fabric: cotton, silk, wool, viscose, cupro, linen or polyester. Works well in fabrics with comfort stretch. Not suitable for jersey. 

Find Your Size:

Take your measurements according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement. Print the measurements chart here.

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished garment will fit you perfectly. 

Cutting Fabric

On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:

A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I

Sewing

NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.

1. Cut all pieces in fabric, pocket lining, and fusible interfacing. Remember to mark all notches and markings. 

2. Press fusible interfacing onto the pocket facing (G) and all waistband pieces (C, D, E). 

3. Sew the darts on the back pieces (B), right sides together, according to notches and markings. 

4. Press the dart towards the center back. 

5. Finish the long seam on the pocket facing (G) and the pocket bag facing (I), as well as the long straight seam on the big pocket bags (H). Use an overlocker or a zigzag stitch. 

6. Place the wrong side of pocket facing (G) on top of the small pocket bag (F) and stitch it in place by topstitching on the finished edge.   

7. Place the wrong side of the pocket bag facing (I) on top of the large pocket bag (H), and stitch it in place by topstitching on the finished edge.  

TIP! Sew the pocket facing (G) and pocket bag facing (I) to the right side of the pocket bags if you want the right side visible inside your garment, and to the wrong side of the pocket bag, if not. 

8. Place the pocket bag (F) right sides together with the front pants (A), and sew the pocket opening together. 

9. Clip into the corner, and press the pocket bag and seam allowance towards the pocket bag. 

10. Understitch the pocket bag. 

11. Turn the pocket bag (F) to the wrong side and press the pocket opening nicely. 

12. Place the other pocket bag (H) on top, and sew the two pocket bags together at the bottom and up to the notch on the long straight edge of the pocket bag. 

13. Finish the edges of: 

• The bottom of the pocket bag 

• The side seams of the front and back pants (A & B) 

• The inseam of the front and back pants (A & B) 

• The crotch seam of the front pants, including the pocket bag (A) 

• The crotch seam of the back pants (B) Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch. 

14. Sew the front pants (A) and back pants (B) together at the side seams, right sides together. 

15. Press the side seam towards the back piece. 

16. Sew the front pants (A) and back pants (B) together at the inseam, right sides together. 

17. Press the inseam open. 

18. Sew the right and left pant legs together at the crotch curve, right sides together. 

Sewing the waistband:  

19. Place the side waistband (D), on each side of the back waistband (E), right sides together.  

20. Sew together and press the seams open. Repeat so you have two pieces.  

21. Sew the two waistbands together along the short curved side.  

22. Clip notches into the seam allowance. 

23. Unfold the waistband and press all the seam allowance towards one waistband piece. Understitch the seam allowance. The understitched part will be the side facing your body. 

24. Finish the edge of the understitched side of the waistband. Use an overlocker, bias binding, or zigzag stitch. 

25. Sew the two center front waistbands (C) together along the short curved side. 

26. Clip notches into the seam allowance. 

27. Unfold the waistband and press all the seam allowance towards one waistband piece. Understitch the seam allowance. The understitched part will be the side facing your body. 

28. Finish the edge of the understitched side of the waistband. Use an overlocker, bias binding, or zigzag stitch. 

29. Place and pin the center front waistband (C), the side without the finished edge, right sides together with the waist of the front pants. Include the pocket bag (F) in the seam. The waistband should extend 1 cm beyond each side. 

30. Sew the front waistband and front pants together. Press the seam allowance towards the waistband. 

31. Fold the waistband in half, right sides together. At the ends leave the seam allowance from step 29 folded towards the waistband as pressed and allow the finished edge seam allowance to extend 1 cm past the waistband seam. Pin together. 

32. Sew the waistband ends together clip corners and turn the waistband right side out. 

33. Press the waistband from the right side and pin it along the waistband seam. 

34. From the right side, stitch in the ditch along the seam between the waistband and pants. 

35. Place and pin the back/side waistband (E+D), the side without the finished edge, right sides together with the waist edge of the back pants and pocket bag (H). The waistband should extend 1 cm beyond each side. 

36. Sew together and press the seam allowance towards the waistband. 

37. Fold the waistband in half, right sides together. At the ends leave the seam allowance from step 35 folded towards the waistband as pressed and allow the finished edge seam allowance to extend 1 cm past the waistband seam. Pin together. 

38. Sew the waistband ends together, clip corners and turn the waistband right side out. 

39. Press the waistband from the right side and pin it along the waistband seam. 

40. From the right side, stitch in the ditch along the seam between the waistband and pants. 

41. Sew buttonholes according to the markings, along the pocket opening on the front piece, as well as on the waistband as shown in the drawing. All buttonholes are horizontal. 

42. Sew buttons in place

43. Finish the hem of the pants with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. 

44. Fold the pant legs up with a 5 cm wide hem and press. Sew in place with a regular stitch or invisible stitches (catch stitch).