No. 31 Firenze - Version 1

A short jacket with a waistband and a yoke on the back. The jacket has a collar and a front placket, closing with buttons. The sleeves are lined and have cuffs.

Fabric choice:

Light to medium weight woven fabric. Cotton, Silk, Wool, Viscose, Cupro, Linen or Polyester The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose. Not suitable for jersey.

Find Your Size:

Take your measurements according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement. Print the measurements chart here.

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished style will fit you perfectly.

Cutting Fabric

On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:

A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H

Sewing

NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.

1. Cut all your pieces in fabric, lining and interfacing as needed.  Remember to mark all the notches when cutting.

2. Press the interfacing to one set of cuffs (H) to the waistband (E) and to one set of collars (B)

3. Finish the seams of ide seams at front and back pieces (A and C)
You can finish by overlocking, making a zig-zag or with bias tape.

4. Make a gathering stitch between the two notches at the back piece (C) 0.5 cm and one 1.5 cm from the edge.

5. Place the yoke (D) with right side to the back piece (C), matching the notches and gathering excess fabric between the notches. Pin the two pieces together. Now pin the right side of the yoke lining to the wrong side of the backpiece. The backpiece is now sandwiched between the two yokes. Sew the three pieces together at the yoke seam.

6. Sew the shoulder seams with the “burrito method” like this:

·      Place the front piece (A) with right side facing the main fabric yoke (D) and pin the shoulder seams together.

·      Roll the front and back piece (A & C) to the shoulder seem like a burrito.

·      Fold the lining yoke around both the front and back piece (A & C) and sew the shoulder seam with the three layers.

·      Turn front and back piece out from the “Yoke sandwich” and press nicely.

7. Sew the neck seam of the collar (B), right sides together, and press the seam open. Repeat so you will get two pieces, one with interfacing on and one without.

8. Sew the two collar pieces together on the outer edge, the longest seam, with right sides together. Clip notches and corners and turn and press the collar nicely.

9. Place the collar piece without interfacing, with right side together with the edge of the jacket, matching the front notches and the notch to the shoulder seam. Sew the two pieces together and press the seam towards the jacket.

10. Fold the seam allowance of the upper collar to the wrong side with 1 cm. Press and pin the collar so the folded edge just covers the seam.

11. Sew the two collars together, with a stitch all the way around, from one side to the other. You can make a top stitch 0,2 cm from the folded edge or you can make a stitch in the ditch. Sew from the right side of the jacket and remember to catch the edge of the collaron the inside of the jacket.

12. Sew front and back pieces together at the side seams, right sides together. Press seams open

13. Make three sets of gathering stitches at the bottom of the jacket, follow the markings on from the pattern.

14. Sew the two waistbands (E), with right sides together, at one of the long edges without notches.

15. Press the seam allowance towards the piece with interfacing. Understitch the seam to the piece with interfacing.

16. Place the waistband piece without interfacing to the bottom of the jacket, right sides together. First notch matches the side seam second notch matches the center back and third notch matches the other side seam NOTE! The raw ends of the waistband stick 1 cm out from front of the jacket.

17. Sew the waistband to the jacket, right sides together. Press the seam towards the waistband.

18. Fold the waistband with right sides together and sew the ends of the waistband.

19. Turn the waistband right side out. Press the seam allowance inside the waistband with 1 cm. and pin the waistband so the inside of the folded edge to cover the seam.

20. Sew the waistband together, with a stitch all the way, from one side to the other. You can make a top stitch 0.2 cm from the folded edge, or you can make a stitch in the ditch. Sew from the right side of the jacket and remember to catch the edge of the waistband on the inside of the jacket.

Sew the sleeves

21. Sew the long seam of the sleeves, right sides together, stop at the notch. Do this on both the main fabric and on the lining.

22. Sew the short seam of the sleeves, right sides together. Do it on both the main fabric and on the lining.

23. Press all seams open.

See video

24. Sew the sleeve slit: Place the sleeve lining on top of the main fabric, right sides together, at the sleeve opening. Pin one side of the slit, from the bottom to where the slit ends at the long sleeve seam. Sew the lining and fabric together, stop exactly where the long sleeve seam starts. Repeat this on the other side of the slit.

25. Understitch the lining to the seam allowance. First on one side of the slit and then on the other side

26. Turn the sleeve lining inside the fabric sleeve and press the slit nicely.

27. Sew a gathering stitch between the two notches at the sleeve head of the main fabric sleeves one stitch 0.5 cm and one 1.5 cm from the edge.

28. Sew a gathering stitch between the two notches at the sleeve head of the lining sleeves one stitch 0.5 cm and one 1.5 cm from the edge.

29. Sew a gathering stitch at the bottom of the sleeve, through both fabric and lining, one stitch 0.5 cm and one 1.5 cm from the edge.

30. Place a set of cuffs (H), right sides together. Sew from the flat end all the way round to the last notch after the pointy end. Repeat for the other set of cuffs.  

31. Cut the corners and clip the notch almost to the seam.

32. Turn and press the cuffs.

33. Place the cuff piece without interfacing to the bottom of the sleeve, right sides together, the pointy end is on the biggest sleeve part (upper sleeve piece F). Gather the sleeve so it matches the cuff.

34. Press and pin all the seam allowance inside the cuff with 1 cm.

35. Sew the cuff together, at the base of the sleeve, from one side to the other. You can make a top stitch 0.2 cm from the folded edge, or you can make a stitch in the ditch. Sew from the right side of the cuff and remember to catch the edge of the cuff on the inside of the sleeve.

36. Place the fabric sleeve in the armscye, right sides together, matching the marking on sleeve and armscye together. Gather the sleeve so it fits between the notches of the armscye. Sew, and press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.

37. Gather the sleeve lining to fit the markings on the armscye. Fold the seam allowance by 1 cm and pin it to the armscye to hide the seam of the armscye.

38. Sew the lining to the armscye by hand.

39. Make buttonholes at the right front, follow the guide on the pattern. The buttonholes are vertical.

40. Make buttonholes in the overlap of the cuff, follow the guide on the pattern. The buttonholes are horizontal.

41. Sew in the buttons.