No. 28 Hanover - Version 1

A pair of slacks with a cutline at the front, ending at the ankle. The pants have a wide waist yoke with pockets and a curved hemline.

Fabric choice:

Light to medium weight woven fabric. Cotton, Silk, Wool, Viscose, Cupro, Linen or Polyester. Works well in fabrics with comfort stretch. Not suitable for jersey.

Find Your Size:

Take your measurement according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement print the measurement chart here

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished style will fit you perfectly.

Cutting Fabric

On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:

A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H

Sewing

NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.

1.    Cut all your pieces in fabric and interfacing as needed.  

2.    Press interfacing to all the front and back yoke pieces (D) & (E), to the front hem facing (G) & (H) and a narrow stripe to the waist line on front side piece (B).

3. Finish the seams of: 
You can finish by overclocking or making a zig-zag

·     Crutch line  front and center back piece (A) (C)

·     Inner seam front and back piece (A) (C)

·     Side seam front and back piece (B) (C)

·     Front seam (A) (B)

·     Hem line on back piece (C)

·     Top of hem facing (G) (H)

4.    Sew the darts on the back pieces (C) with right sides together. Fold according to the markings. Press towards center back.

5.    Sew the front and side piece together (A) (B) right sides together. Stop the seam at the first notch at the bottom. Press seam open.

6.    Place hem facing (H) on the front side piece, right sides together, and sew by following the curve on the hem facing, end seam at notch.

7.    Place hem facing (G) on the front piece, right sides together, and sew by following the curve on the hem facing. end seam at notch.

8.    Cut the excess fabric by following the curve on the hem-facing piece (G) (H).

9.    Sew the two hem-facing pieces together at the top.

10.    Clip notches to the seam allowance, turn the fabric to the wrong side and under-stitch along the curve.

11.     Press the hem on front piece.

Sew the pocket

12.    Place the right side of a pocket bag (F) on the right side of the front piece (B) at the waist, matching the notches. Sew between notches, remember to backstitch.

13.    Clip notches at the start and the end of the stitch.  

14.    Flip the pocket bag upwards and under-stitch the seam allowance at the pocket opening.

15.    Fold the pocket bag to the wrong side and fold the pocket bag at the notches so the edge matches the waistline.

16.    Sew the pocket bag together in each side.

17.    Finish the edge of the side of the pocket bags with all layers together.   You can finish by overclocking, making a zig-zag or with bias tape.

18.     Baste the top of the pocket along the waistline on each side of the opening.

Sew the trousers

19.    Sew the left side seam, right sides together.

20.    Sew the right side seams, right sides together, stop at hip notch.

21.    Sew the inseams, right sides together. Press all seams open.

22.    Sew the crutch seam, place the left leg inside the right leg with right sides together.

Sew the yoke

23.    Sew the yoke center back seam right sides together (E).

24.    Sew the yoke front to the side. Make sure to make the two yokes as a mirrored pair.

25.    Press all seams open.

26.    Sew one yoke to the waist, right sides together. Be careful not to catch the pocket opening in the seam.

27.    Press the yoke upwards. And the seam allowance towards the yoke.

Sew the zipper

See a video

28.    Place the right side of the zipper allonge the edge of the side seam. Place the end of the zipper band in the same height as the raw edge of the yoke. Be careful that the cutline of front and back match up.

29.    Baste stitch the zipper to the pants.

30.    Use a sewing foot for invisible zippers or flip the teeth of the zipper aside and sew the zipper in place. 

31.    Sew the rest of the side seam below the zipper. 

32.    Press seam open and press the zipper gently from the right side.

33.    Place the second yoke on the yoke sewn to the pants, right side together, and sew.

34.    Clip notches to the seam allowance.

35.    Press the yoke upwards and under-stitch the seam allowance to the second yoke.

36.    Finish the edge with an overlock or bias tape.

37.    Turn the yoke to the right side, sandwiched the zipper in between the two yokes and sew together approx. 0.5 cm from edge.

38.    Turn the yoke gently and press the yoke in place.

39.    Finish the yoke by stitching in the ditch from the right side of the pants, making sure to catch the inside yoke. 

Hem the pants

40.    With pants inside out fold the hem on the back piece (C) around the front of the pants so the right side of the front hem facing (G) (H) is facing the right side of the back hem. Stitch together at side and inner seam.

41.    Turn the back hem to the right side, press and hem with a catch stitch or a topstitch.