No. 26 Hamborg - Version 2

A relaxed fitted shirt with a notched collar. With short sleeves with cuffs, a chest pocket,two bust darts on each side and optional piping.

Fabric choice:

Light to medium weight woven fabric. Cotton, Silk, Viscose, Cupro, Tencel, Linen or Polyester The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose. Not suitable for jersey.

Find Your Size:

Take your measurement according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement print measurement chart here

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished style will fit you perfectly.

Cutting Fabric

On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:

A,B,E,F,G,H,I

Sewing

NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.

You can make this shirt with piping or without.

1.Cut all your pieces in fabric and interfacing as needed. 

2. Press the interfacing to the collar (E), the front facing (G) and the cuff (I) 

3. Sew the darts on the front piece (A) right sides together. Fold according to the notches and markings.

4. Press top dart upwards and the lower dart downwards. 

You can only add piping to the pocket if the fabric has no back and face side. Skip step 5 and 6 if you don’t add piping.

5. Sew piping to the short sides, closest to the notches (F) right sides together.  

6. Fold the seam allowance of the piping and press .

7. Fold according to the notches and press .

8. Topstitch the pocket hem 0.2 cm from the folded edge. 

9. Fold the sides and the bottom to the back side of the pocket with 1 cm. 

10. Place the pocket to the left front piece according to the markings. Make a top stitch around the pocket.

11. Sew the front and back piece together at the side seams, right sides together

12. Finish the seams of: 

• Side seams as a closed seam. Press seam backwards.

• Shoulder seams, separately. 

• Inner seams of the sleeves, separately (H) 

• The long edge and the shoulder of the front facing (G)   

13. Sew front and back piece together at shoulder seams, right sides together. Press seams open. 

If you want piping on your shirt – see the video guide here. 

Skip next step if you don’t add piping. 

14. Sew the piping to one of the collar pieces and sew 1 cm from edge (E) right sides together. No piping on the long edge with notches. In the corners, you have to clip notches in the piping to get around the corner of the collar.

15. Sew the collar (E) right sides together. Leave open on the long edge with notches. 

16. Turn and press the collar nicely. If necessary, cut corners. 

17. Pin one layer of the collar to the body, and sew the collar to the neckline (see video). Start the seam 2 cm before the shoulder seam and end 2 cm after the shoulder seam (see video)

Skip next step if you don’t add piping  

18. Sew piping to the front and the neckline on the front facing (G) right sides together. You have to clip notches in the piping to get around the corner. 

19. Place the facing to the shirt, right sides together. And sew from the bottom to the shoulder seam. 

20. Clip In the seam allowance of both collar and shirt. clip where you facing ends. And stop the clip 0.2 cm from the collar stitch 

21. Turn the facing to the inside, making sure to open out the notches. Press.

22. Press the collar seam upwards and fold the unsewn side of the collar under along the seam line. Sew a top stitch o.2 cm from the folded edge from shoulder to shoulder seam.

23. Hem the shirt with a narrow hem. Fold 0.5 cm then 0.5 cm.

Sew the sleeve

24. Sew the inner seam of the sleeves (H), right sides together.

25. Press seam open. 

Skip steps 26 and 27 if you don’t add piping. 

26. Sew piping to the edge of one of the long sides of the cuff (I) right sides together.  

27. Press the seam allowance of the piping to the wrong side of the cuff (I) 

28. Sew the cuff (I) on the short side, right sides together. Press seam open 

29. Place the right side of the cuff (I) to the wrong side of the sleeve (H) and sew.

30. Press the cuff away from the sleeve and press the seam allowance towards the cuff.

31. Fold the folded seam allowance to the right side of the sleeve so it covers the stitch you made in point 29.  

32. Topstitch the cuff to the sleeve 0.2 cm from the folded edge, NOT on the piping 

33. Sew an ease stitch 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm around the sleeve head.

34. Sew the sleeves to the armscye – match the notch on the sleeve (H) to the notches in the armscye.

35. Finish the sleeve seam.

35. Press the sleeve seam towards the sleeve.

36. Sew the facing down at the shoulders with a stitch-in-the-ditch.

37. Make button holes following the guides on the pattern. 

38. Sew in the buttons