No. 26 Hamborg - Version 1

A relaxed fitted shirt with a notched collar. Long sleeves with wide cuffs, chest pocket and two bust darts on each side.

Fabric choice:

Light to medium-weight woven fabric. Cotton, Silk, Viscose, Cupro, Tencel, Linen or Polyester The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose. Not suitable for jersey.

Find Your Size:

Take your measurement according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement print the measurement chart here.

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished style will fit you perfectly.

Cutting Fabric

On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:

A,B,C,D,E,F,G

Sewing

NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.

1.Cut all your pieces in fabric and interfacing as needed. 

2. Press the interfacing to the collar (E), the front facing (G) and the cuff (D) 

3. Sew the darts on the front piece (A) right sides together. Fold according to the notches and markings.

4. Press top dart upwards and the lower dart downwards. 

5. Fold the top pocket hem down 1cm, fold again according to the notches and press. 

6. Topstitch the pocket hem 0.2 cm from the folded edge. 

7. Fold the sides and the bottom to the back side of the pocket with 1 cm. 

8. Place the pocket on the left front piece. Top stitch around the pocket.

9. Sew the front and back piece together at the side seams, right sides together

10. Finish the seams of: 

• Side seams as a closed seam. Press seam backwards.

• Shoulder seams, separately. 

• Inner seams of the sleeves, separately (C) 

• The long edge and the shoulder of the front facing (G)   

11. Sew front and back piece together at shoulder seams, right sides together. Press seams open. 

12. Sew the collar (E) right sides together. Leave open on the long edge with notches. 

13. Turn and press the collar nicely. If necessary, cut corners. 

14. Pin one layer of the collar to the body, and sew the collar to the neckline. Start the seam 2 cm before the shoulder seam and end 2 cm after the shoulder seam (see video)

15. Place the facing to the front shirt, right sides together, sandwiching the collar between the two. Sew from the bottom to the shoulder seam. 

16. Clip in the seam allowance of both collar and shirt. Clip where your facing ends. Stop the clip 0.2 cm from the collar stitch 

17. Turn the facing to the inside, making sure to open out the notches. Press.

18. Press the collar seam upwards and fold the unsewn side of the collar under along the seam line. Sew a top stitch o.2 cm from the folded edge from shoulder to shoulder seam.

19. Hem the shirt with a narrow hem. Fold 0.5 cm then 0.5 cm.

Sew the sleeve

20. Fold the sleeve pleats according to the notches on the pattern, baste stitch.

21. Sew the inner seam of the sleeves (C), right sides together, stop at notch 

22. Press seam open. 

23. Fold the slit with a narrow hem of 0.5 cm 

24. Sew round the slit 0.2 cm from the folded edge 

25. See video. Place the right side of the cuff (D) to the wrong side of the sleeve (C). Match the notch of the cuff with the part of the sleeve with no pleats. sew the cuff to the sleeve. The cuff on the overlap is 1 cm bigger than the sleeve. This is seam allowance. 

26. Press the cuff away from the sleeve and press the seam allowance towards the cuff. 

27. Fold the overlay as in illustration 1 and the underlay in illustration 2 

28. Turn the cuff and press the seam allowance towards the inside of the cuff.

29. Top stitch the cuff to the right side 0.2 cm from the folded edge.

30. Sew an ease stitch 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm around the sleeve head.

31. Sew the sleeves to the armscye – match the notches on the sleeve (C) to the notches in the armscye.

32. Finish the sleeve seam. 

33. Press the sleeve seam towards the sleeve.

34. Sew the facing down at the shoulders with a stitch-in-the-ditch.

35. Make button holes at the right front, follow the guide on the pattern. Also, make buttonholes at the cuffs.

36. Sew in the buttons