No. 22 Tangier - Version 2

A classic shaped coat with a classic cut and statement “cape” sleeves. The coat has a yoke on the back, pockets in the front-side seam and a beautiful collar.

Fabric choice:

Medium to heavy weight woven fabric like wool, linen or heavy silk. The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose. Not suitable for jersey

Find Your Size:

Take your measurement according to the measurement chart, choose the size closest to your measurement. Print measurement chart here

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished style will fit you perfectly.

Cutting Fabric

On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

YOU WILL NEED FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:

A,B,C,D,G,H,I,J,K,L,M,N,Q

Sewing

NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.

1.Cut all your pieces in fabric, lining, pocket lining and interfacing as needed.  Remember to mark all the notches when cutting.

2. Press the interfacing (Q) to the front piece (A), neck facing (J), upper collar (H) and under collar (I). On the back (B), press a small piece of interfacing to the corners as shown in the drawing below. Also, press a long strip of interfacing to the side seam on both front (A) and back (B) between the pocket notches. 20 cm long and 2 cm wide.

3. Sew the darts on the front (A), right sides together. Fold according to the notches and markings. Press the dart upwards  .

Sew the pockets  

4. Overlock the long side of the pocket facing (K).  

5. Place the pocket facing (K) on top of one of the pocket bags (L)   .

6. Sew the Pocket facing (K) to the pocket bag (L). The stitch line should be in the middle of the overlock seam on the long edge of the facing.

 7. Place the pocket bag without the pocket facing (K) between the markings in the side seam of the front, (A) right sides together . Sew between the markings. See a video on how to sew a side seam pocket.  

8. Clip notches to the seam allowance. Cut close to the seam.  

9. Flip the pocket bag (L) out, press and  under stitch  the pocket bag to the front (A).  

10. Press the pocket bag to the wrong side of the front piece and place the pocket bag with the pocket facing on top. Sew the pocket bags right sides together.   Sew twice to make the seam stronger.

SEW THE yoke  

11. Sew the yoke (D) to the back piece according to the notches, right sides together. Press the seam towards the yoke.

12. Sew the shoulder seams, right sides together. Press seam towards the yoke.  

Sew the lapel– See video  

13. Sew the undercollar (I) together at the center back. Press seam open.

14. Sew the neck facing (J) to the front (A) at the shoulders - right sides together. Press seams open.  

15.  Mark the seam allowance on all corners in the front neckline (A) and the collar (H & I); these markings will be your anchor point when attatching the collar to the neckline.  

   16. Pin the undercollar to the coat from center back to the first marking (A1). – Stitch the under collar to the neck from notch H1 to H1, and backstitch at both the beginning and end of the seam. Make sure to hit the anchor points exactly.

17. Clip a notch in the corner (A1) close to the stitch. NOTE! Only clip in the coat (A)  .

18. Turn the collar to fit the next marking (H2 to A2) you have made and sew; remember to backstitch at both the beginning and end of the seam. Make sure to hit the anchor points exactly.

19. Sew the upper collar the same way, this time to the facing part of the neckline.  

20. Press all seams open and cut away excess seam allowance in all the corners - see video.  

21. Sew the upper and under collar together from corner to corner, right sides together. Make sure not to catch the seam allowance from your previous seams.

22. The last part of the collar is the front piece (A). Fold at center front line, right sides together, and stitch from center front to the point where the collar is attached to the front piece.

23. Cut down the seam allowance on the undercollar to 0.5 cm and clip notches to the corner of the collar.  

24. Turn and press the collar.  

25. Sew the seam allowance from the two collars together in the neckline by hand.   The seam allowance is pressed open so it is only the seam that is pressed towards the back you should sew together. Sew from shoulder seam to shoulder seam.

Sew the sleeves  

26. Place the fabric and the lining with right sides together. Sew from the corner and all the way around to the first marking (a) on the curved line

27. Under stitch the seam.   

28. Sew from the corner and up to notch (b). Turn and press the sleevs.  

29. Place the bottom part of the side piece (C), matching markings, to the back piece (B), right sides together. Sew the two pieces together, stopping the seam 1 cm. before the edge of the side piece. Backstitch.

30. Clip in the corner of the seam allowance on the back piece (B).   Press seam open.

31. Place the sleeve (G) in the armscye. Right sides together. The sleeve has to be attached to the seams of the side panel. The front sleeve ends at the “wing sleeve notch” (see pattern) The back sleeve ends in the corner of the side piece and back piece. Sew the sleeve to the coat.  The top-notch should be aligned with the notch on the yoke.

32. Turn the side piece (C) in place along the side seam. Placing the sleeve (G) between the backpiece (B) and the sidepiece (C). Sew from the bottom corner towards the sleeve opening. Press seam towards the side seam.

33. Sew the front piece (A) and the back piece (B) together at the side seam matching the waist seam to the upper side of the pocket opening, right sides together. Note! Be careful not to sew the pocket closed while at the same time making certain to catch the upper and lower corners of the pocket bag with the side seam. Press seams towards the back piece.
  

34.  Press a 4 cm wide interfacing piece to the hemline. See a guide on how I make it.   stop the interfacing 7 cm. before the front edge.

  Sew Lining  

35. Sew the center back pleat according to the markings on the pattern, right sides together.   Press the pleat towards one side.

36. Sew the side seams, right sides together.  

37. Sew the shoulder seams.  

38. Press all seams open.   

Assemble the coat  

39. Place the lining inside the coat, right sides together.  

40. Pin the lining to the coat along the facing. From the bottom to the neck and back to the bottom at the other side. The two markings on the front lining (M) add extra ease – make a pleat according to those notches.     

41. Sew the lining to the fabric, and press the seam towards the lining.

42. Turn the coat inside out. Fold the facing so it is placed with right sides together at the front. At the hemline sew with 1 cm. from center front to the seam between facing and lining. Fade the lining from the facing down to the hemline over the 7 cm that has no interfacing on (from point 34.) continue the seam with 1 cm. and repeat this on the other side.

43. Pull the coat through the sleeve hole, and press the hemline (4 cm).  Make sure the interfacing is attaching inside the hem (if you have added the interfacing band) if not hem with a catch stitch.

44. Sew in shoulder pads. See here how to. you can leave them out if you want a more soft looking shoulder.

45. Finish the sleeve hole with a  bias band. See how to make it from your lining here.  

46. Press the seam towards the sleeve.  

47. Make horizontal buttonholes at your centre front. Make the first buttonhole 2.5 cm down from the neckline and approximately 10. cm between depending on the size of your buttons.   

48. Place the buttons on the coat according to the buttonholes and sew the buttons to the coat.