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You will need

Fabric Width 110 cm

  • 32-44 1.65 m

  • 46-54 2.1 m

Fabric Width 140 cm

  • 32-44 1.1 m

  • 46-54 1.5 m

Thread

 

No. 18 New York - Version 3


A chemise with narrow bias cut straps. Gathered at the bust and at the back waist. The cutline of the dress is under the bust at the front and in the waist at the back. The skirt is cut on the bias. 


Fabric choice:

Light to medium weight woven fabric. Cotton, Silk, Viscose, Cupro or Polyester.

Find Your Size:

Take your measurements and choose the closest size from the measurement chart see measurement chart here

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin (also known as a toile) before you cut the fashion fabric. This will ensure your finished style fits you perfectly.


Cutting Fabric


Match the lettered pattern pieces (A, C, E, F, G) to the cutting layout plan for the view you have chosen.


Sewing


 

NB! THE PATTERN HAS 1 CM SEAM ALLOWANCES INCLUDED UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

1.     Cut out all pieces in fabric

NB!

  • Pattern piece A, C & H is cut on bias.

 

2.     Overlock: 

  • Side seam top-front piece (E)

  • Side seam top-back piece(F)

  • Side seam bottom-front (A)

  • Side seam bottom-back (C)

3.     Sew the top side seams, right sides together. (E+F)

4.     Sew the bottom side seams, right sides together. (A+C)

5.     Press all seams open. 

6.     Sew the bias band to the top-back piece from the back to the notch at the front. See a guide.

Place the right side of the bias band to the wrong side of the top.

  • Sew with a seam allowance of 0.7 cm – press the bias band out. 

  • Fold the raw edge of the bias band to the raw edge of the top.

  • Fold the bias band around the edge of the top. 

  • Topstitch the bias binding in place, 0.2 cm from the edge. 

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 Finish the edge and make the strap

 7.     Sew the bias tape to the top-front over the bias band you just sew. Let a tail of approx. 45 cm hang from the end, this is going to be your strap. When sewing the top stitch of the bias band – continue the top stitch and finish at the end end of the tail.

8.     Machine baste a gathering thread between the notches on the top-front piece(E). 

9.     Machine baste a gathering thread between the notches on the top-back piece(F). 

10.  Pin the top to the bottom and gather between the notches. The top-front and the top-back pieces are overlapping.

11.  Sew the top and bottom together. 

12.  Overlock the seam and press down.

13.  Finish the chemise with a narrow hem.

14.  Adjust the straps, so they fit you - and sew them onto the back.