YOU WILL NEED
Fabric Width 140 cm
34-40 2.1 m
42-50 2.4 m
Thread
4 buttons (diameter 1,5-2 cm)
Interfacing 20 cm
No. 19 Chicago- Version 1
Midi length wide leg bias-cut trousers. The trousers have no side seam and are closed CB with buttons. The waist is finished with a bias band, and on the front, there are two patch pockets.
FABRIC CHOICE:
Light to medium weight woven fabric. Cotton, Silk, Wool, Viscose, Cupro, Linen or Polyester. Works well in fabrics with comfort stretch. Not suitable for jersey.
FIND YOUR SIZE:
Take your measurements and choose the closest size from the measurement chart see measurement chart here
FITTING:
We recommend that you always make a muslin (also known as a toile) before you cut the fashion fabric. This will ensure your finished style fits you perfectly.
Cutting Fabric
Match the lettered pattern pieces (A, B, C etc.) to the cutting layout plan for the view you have chosen.
NB! Find the length for the bias tape in the measurement chart below.
Sewing
NB! THE PATTERN HAS 1 CM SEAM ALLOWANCES INCLUDED UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.
1. Cut out all pieces in fabric
NB!
2. Pattern piece A & B is cut on the bias.
3. The waistband is cut on the bias.
4. Press interfacing onto the fly parts – see drawing.
a. Pattern piece E to the right piece.
b. Pattern piece D to the left piece.
c. Pattern piece D to the fly.
5. Overlock
a. Inner seam.
b. Crotch.
c. Straight edge on the fly.
d. Pockets all sides.
6. Hem the top (long side) of the pocket with 2.5 cm
7. Topstitch 2 cm from the folded edge.
8. Fold the rest of the sides with 1 cm, wrong sides together.
9. Place the pocket on the trousers using the markings on the pattern. Top stitch the pocket in place, 0.2 cm from the edge.
10. Sew the fly to the left trousers piece, right sides together.
11. Clip notches on the curved seam, turn and press.
12. Fold the fly at the notch on the right trousers piece. Turn right sides out and press
13. Sew the inner seam, right sides together. Press seam open.
14. Sew the crotch, right sides together. Stop the seam 1 cm after the fly curve. Press seam open as far as you can.
15. Sew the ends at the bias-cut waistband, right sides together. Turn and press.
16. Place the waistband to the right side of the waistline. At the underlap and overlap sew the waistband in a sandwich.
17. Overlock the waist seam
18. Turn and press down
19. Sew buttonholes on the overlap –see markings on the pattern.
20. Sew on buttons.
21. On the wrong side, sew together the fly-underlap and overlap in the curve.
22. Hem the Trousers with a narrow hem or a rolled seam.