From outerwear to Dress

How to amend the pattern

you need to work with pattern piece A, B and G

1. Amend the back, pattern piece A

• Extent pattern piece A with 40 cm. 

• Remove 1 cm of seam allowance CB

 2. Amend the front, pattern piece B

• Extent pattern piece B with 40 cm. 

• Remove the overlap, the pattern piece is now to cut on fold CF

• Mark the two long sides of the pocket opening, this is the waist pleat.

3. Extend the sides on the front

• extend the side seam with 10 cm.

You must lower and extend the width of the side seam. To get the right angle on the new line, mark the point X the following way:

• Divide the measurement from point 1 and 2 in two; this is the new point X.

• Draw a line through the new point X to get the correct angle and connect with the extended side seam.

 4. Shape the neckline on the front

• Mark a point 11 cm down on the raglan seam.

• Mark a point 13 cm down on CF.

• Connect the points – this is your new neckline.

Cutting

• Cut all pattern pieces – the grainline is the opposite direction.

• Cut pattern piece A & B on fold.

• Cut Bias band with a width of 3,5 cm and cot approx. 4 m in total.

Sewing

Back

1. Sew the dart on the back piece, right sides together. 

2. Finish the raw edge with an overlock or bias band for a fancier inside.

3. Sew the sleeve cap to the shoulder, right sides together.

4. Overlock the sleeve cap seam allowances. Be careful at the corner. See here how to overlock the corner.  Or sew bias band for a fancier inside

5. Press the seam allowances towards the centre-back. Fold the pleats and stitch it in place.

Sew front

6. fold the pleats with right sides together and sew. Press toward CF

7. Fold the waist tie on half (G) with right sides together. Sew, turn and press.

8. Attach the waist tie to the front

A – sew the right side of the waist tie to the wrong side of the front. – place it 1 cm from the to corner and 2 cm from the edge. 

B – Fold the edge 2 x 1 cm and make a topstitch.

C – Then fold the waist tie out and stitch it to the folded edge.

9. Hem the front with a narrow edge of 2 x 0,5cm 

10. Sew bias band on the front neckline.

11. Fold the front, right sides together, and sew a small triangle on the bias band to shape the v- neck.

12. Sew the front to the back in the raglan seam, right sides together.

13. Finish the edges over the waist tie with a narrow hem, ending at the first notch.

14. Sew bias band to the edge of the raglan seam. Start from the top continue down, over the folded edge at the notch, and to the bottom of the back piece. 

15. Bind the neckline of the back piece with a bias band that is 60 cm longer than the neckline. Let a tail of 30 cm hang from the ends this is going to be your ties. When sewing the top stitch of the bias band start at the end of one tail and end at the other end.

16. Hem the backside with a narrow hem of 1 x 0,5 cm