Fitting
Low shoulder/short back
You can have low shoulders, without having a short back. In this case, you don´t have to make both adjustments. Do you have a long back or straight shoulders, do the opposite.
Pin away extra fabric.
Mark your pins, with a pen, and draw lines on the muslin. Transfer the lines to your muslin.
1. Low shoulder - Work with top back and top front piece
Transfer all the lines from the muslin to the paper pattern. Measure on the muslin and transfer the lines onto the pattern. The new lines are red, as illustrated below.
Now cut the red lines, throw the parts out. Make a check measurement, shoulder seams are supposed to be the same length and have to fit over each other.
1. Short back - work with the back piece.
Transfer all the lines from the muslin to the paper pattern. Measure on the muslin and transfer the lines onto the pattern. The new lines red, as illustrated below.
Now cut the red lines.
Throw the shaded part out, see picture below.
2. Tape the two pieces together to one piece.
They have to fit at the neckline. It will give an uneven armscye.
Shape the armhole again, by drawing a curved line.
3. The finished pattern piece.
Make a grainline and name the pattern.