Fitting

I use two types of alterations for the full bust.

Alteration 1 is for those who have a round and wide bust, which isn’t much larger than average.

Alteration 2 is for those who have a large bust, often one to two sizes bigger than the rest of the body.

Alteration 1

1. Find the bust point:

Find the centre of the bust dart and the waist dart and elongate the centre line of each. Where the two lines meet, is where the bust point is. (If your pattern has pleats at the waist, draw the line in the centre of the pleat instead).
Draw a line from the armscye notch to the bust point.
Cut the red lines.

2. Make the alteration up to 1.2 cm by spreading the pattern pieces as explained below:

Place pattern piece (b) so it fits the armscye. Then turn it away from pattern piece (a).
Place pattern piece (c) so it fits the hemline. Then turn it away from pattern piece (a).
The two dart legs must align.

3. Redraw the darts:

Now redraw the darts. Place the point of the waist dart between the two lines where the dart opened.

1. Find the bust point:

Find the centre of the bust dart and the waist dart and elongate the centre line of each. Where the two lines meet, is where the bust point is. (If your pattern has pleats at the waist, draw the line in the centre of the pleat instead).
Draw a line from the armscye notch to the bust point.
Cut the red lines.

2. Make the alteration up to 2.5 cm by spreading the pattern pieces as explained below:

Place pattern piece (b) so it fits the armscye. Then turn it away from pattern piece (a).
Move pattern piece ( c) with pattern piece (b) so that they still meet at the bust point, but DO NOT turn pattern piece ( c).
Move pattern piece (d) down so that it is parallel with pattern piece ( c) both at the waist and the CF line.

3. Finish the pattern piece.

Redraw the darts. Place the point of each dart between the two lines where the dart opened.